The Masai Mara National Reserve is the Kenyan section of the same ecosystem as the Serengeti, separated only by an international border the animals ignore. At 1510 square kilometres it is a fraction of the size of its Tanzanian neighbour, which is why the wildlife feels so concentrated.
The crossings
The herds arrive from the south around July and stay until late October, and during that period they cross the Mara and Talek rivers repeatedly. A crossing can involve thousands of animals over an hour or nothing at all after a full day of waiting, and there is no way to predict it. The crocodiles in the Mara are among the largest in Africa and have learned the calendar.
Big cats
The Mara has an exceptional density of lion, cheetah and leopard, which is why so much wildlife filming happens here — the BBC Big Cat Diary was shot in the reserve and habituated several well-known prides. Cheetah in particular are easier to see here than almost anywhere, and the open grassland means sightings are rarely obstructed.
Reserve or conservancy
This is the most important practical decision. The national reserve is government run, has no cap on vehicles and can produce twenty cars at a single leopard sighting. The surrounding conservancies — Mara North, Naboisho, Olare Motorogi, Ol Kinyei and others — are leased from Maasai landowners, cap vehicle numbers, allow off-road driving, night drives and walking, and charge higher nightly rates. If your budget allows, staying in a conservancy transforms the experience.
Balloons
Balloon flights launch at dawn and land for breakfast in the bush, costing around 450 to 500 US dollars. In the Mara the flights are lower and closer than in the Serengeti because the terrain is gentler.
Getting there
Five to six hours by road from Nairobi, the last stretch rough, or 45 minutes by scheduled flight to one of several airstrips. Reserve entry is 100 US dollars per person per day in high season for non-residents, and conservancies charge their own conservation fee on top of accommodation.
When
July to October for the migration, though the resident game is excellent year round. January and February are dry, green and much quieter. The long rains in April and May bring the lowest prices and some camps close.
The border
The Mara and the Serengeti are one ecosystem, and the herds cross the international boundary without documents. If your itinerary includes both countries, remember that you cannot drive across: the Isebania and Namanga posts are hours away by road, so most people fly between the two.